Wear your Sunscreen

Rise of melanoma in men

By Julie Steenhuysen, Reuters
Monday, May 11, 2009

Older men should visit their doctors to check for melanoma because they are less likely to find it themselves in time, US researchers said.

Many men over 40 are not aware of their skin cancer risks, or the need for regular exams to check for early signs skin cancer, when it is easiest to treat, they said.

Trained doctors are more likely to spot a dangerous skin cancer early, Dr. Susan Swetter of Stanford University Medical Center in California and colleagues wrote in the Archives of Dermatology.

"For men 40 years or older, who constitute more than half of all melanoma deaths in the United States, we have identified at least two key variables (physician exams and education) as major targets for new interventions to promote earlier melanoma detection," the researchers wrote.

Melanoma, the rarest and deadliest form of skin cancer, is becoming more common and death rates are climbing, especially among men over 50.

Swetter and colleagues surveyed 227 melanoma patients age 40 and older between 2004 and 2006 within three months of being diagnosed. Fewer than 20% of the men were aware of melanoma warning signs and fewer than half practiced skin self-examinations.

A quarter of the men had thick, harder-to-treat tumors. Those whose tumors were smaller and thus more treatable were more likely to have been aware of skin cancer risks and the importance of skin cancer exams by doctors.

Another analysis of the data by Alan Geller of Harvard found more than half of patients whose melanomas were detected by a doctor were 65 or older.

Americans over 65 have health coverage under Medicare, the federal insurance program for the elderly, and tend to make more frequent visits to their doctors.

Most of the melanomas were on the patient's back, and Geller and colleagues said the findings suggest the need for "Watch your back" education campaigns that stress the need for physician screening programs, particularly for this high-risk group.

Melanoma accounts for less than 5%of skin cancer cases but causes most skin cancer deaths. The American Cancer Society estimates that about 62,480 new melanomas were diagnosed in the United States during 2008.

10 tips for your first Mountain Bike Race

So you want to enter a mountain bike race but you are not sure if you are ready or what to expect. Here is some information to help you .

Let me start by saying that everyone who is serious about riding should do at least one race.

Why? It makes you a stronger rider by pushing you in a way that other rides wont.

What should you expect and what should you do to prepare for your first race?

1) Pick a race far out enough to prepare for - now is a good time The H2H series has 8 races slated for 2009.

2) Get Fit - Start with a month or two of long rides of 2 or more hours 3 times a week other rides can be recovery rides. After you get a base add intervals to build intensity. Two weeks before your race do a practice run at near race pace. The week of the race perform a taper decreasing ride lengths but still having some short intense efforts to keep legs fresh.

3) Get Skilled - Practice the skills necessary to confidently ride the race of your choice. Expect to encounter logs, rock gardens, quick transitions, switchbacks, and steep descents.

4) Make sure your bike is race ready - Ensure that your bike is in proper working order especially shifting (a finicky derailleur can ruin your day), braking, and tires.

5) Get the right Gear - Baggy shorts and a loose fitting tee may be okay for a quick trail ride and some beers with your buds but, on race day you will be better off with Lycra shorts (preferably bib shorts) and a form fitting bike shirt with three back pockets for stuff and a 3/4 front zipper. You can use a camelback but I would suggest traveling as light as possible an extra five pounds on you back can get pretty heavy after an hour and 1/2 of hard pedaling.

6) Get your race routine ready - Try out and know what you will eat on race day from breakfast to post race. Too much and you will feel sick. Too little and you may bonk. Know what you will eat and drink during the race and pick points on the course where you will eat and drink. Have a post race recovery drink and sandwich waiting as well. Make sure you get your bike ready the night before: Lube the chain and cables, pump your tires, check shock pressure. Then put your pumps, tools, and lube in your car in case you need anything on race day. Lay out your race kit the night before and pack post race clothes as well as something to cleanup with. (I find that wintergreen alcohol a towel and a gallon jug of water to do the trick)
Fill your water bottles the night before. The less you have to worry about on race day the better. Being organized and prepared will help you to feel more confident and calm your race day jitters.

7) You will need a one day license and money for the entry fee this will run you between 25-40 for both. If you know that you will be doing a series or more than a few races apply for a license at USA Cycling for $60 you can race any Domestic event (race fee not included) and you receive quite a few discounts with USA Cycling affiliate partners as well.

8) Expect race time to be between 45-2 hours in duration depending on your class. The Beginner is races are usually around 5-8 miles where sport races are about 10-15 miles.

9) Get to the race venue about an 1-1/2 to 2 hours before. Register online to save some time. You will still need to fill out a waiver at the race and you will want to be warmed up before you go off. You should be on the start line with a light sweat but feeling energized. Despite what some people may say do not ride the entire course on a race day. Ride 5-10 minutes of the beginning of the course and the end. This should be enough time to warm-up without fatiguing yourself up and enable you to review your start and finish strategy.

10) Unless you are injured or you bike is broken do not quit. If you are pushing yourself hard you will probably want to but, dig deep and finish strong. Oh and remember to have fun it's "only a race".
When done You should feel good about yourself you just competed in your first mountain bike race - Well done.

Warning: Racing can be addictive!

---

I have compiled a list of Books Related to this Article: at Amazon

Related Articles:
Virgin

I survived the Dark Horse 40
My first Podium

How to find the Divine Line.

I completed my first mountain bike race in about an hour and twenty minutes
Seven years later I was able to complete the same course in about 30 minutes.
I attribute part of this to my fitness level, but a big portion of the time difference was due to picking better lines. During that first race I had two crashes and had to walk a few sections. One was a large rock garden and the other a technical uphill switchback. At the time I thought no one could ride through the rock garden section. Baby-heads and tombstones littered the area for as far as you could see. The line that I was able to see at that time was all the stuff that I wanted to avoid. I focused on that and stalled my front wheel on the first available large rock. This had me walking the rest of the section. With experience, practice, and riding with people who picked better lines I was able to clear the rock garden by the following season. It is easier because the line I am choosing is the path of least resistance. What follows are some tips to help you pick better lines, clear difficult sections, and keep on rolling (rubber side down).

1) Look where you want to go – I can’t overstate the importance of this one enough. Your bike will go where you look. The tendency is to stare at what you do not want to hit. The result is that you ride right into an object or loose your line. Instead continually scan ahead and pick where you want to go. Make a mental note of obstacles and then focus back on your line. Shift you line of sight from out about 20-30 feet depending on your speed and then back to 5-10. Do not stare down at the ground five feet in front of you this will result in you not having enough time to prepare and react to the trail.

2) Pick the right gear – This one can be tricky. Go into a section in too hard a gear and you will stall. Go in with too easy a gear and you are less stable, bounce around a bit on your seat, and have a better chance of catching a pedal since your cadence is higher in order to generate the same power you would in a higher gear. You want to create a stable platform where you can float above the seat but don’t need to mash down to turn the cranks. You can shift gears in the rear without much difficulty, but make sure that your front derailleur is in the correct gear otherwise if you need to downshift you make get chain-suck.

3) Enter with the correct speed – Speed and momentum can be your friend helping you to clear ruff stuff. The idea here is similar to a speed boat skimming across choppy water.
Of course if you enter a section too fast with no real plan you will more than likely end up over the bars (ouch). Suspension can definitely help here but your technique should be able to get you through most sections. Use suspension as an aid not a crutch.

4) Learn how to weight and un-weight your wheels - When going through a rock garden, over a log, or clearing other rough terrain un-weight the front wheel then the rear. This is a common weight shift that will get you over most obstacles. This weight shift can be practiced right outside your house using any street curb (always practice slow and easy. gradually increase speed and difficulty) Roll up to the curb before your wheel comes in contact lean back and pull back on the bars while performing a downward pedal stroke.

If you are not comfortable with this try performing it on flat ground over a line drawn on the ground once you get the timing down move onto a low curb. Once you are able to clear the front wheel the next step is to un-weight the rear wheel you do this by rolling the bars and shifting your weight forward. If you are clipped in this is easier but you should be able to perform the rear wheel un-weight unclipped as well (when you can do this with flat pedals you have this technique down) If you have ever seen trials ride Jeff Lenosky he does it all unclipped.

Hopefully the above tips will provide you with some food for thought and help you to enjoy the trail more
Good luck and remember to practice progressively and enjoy the process of learning a new skill.

See you on the trails

Mike

---

Related Articles
Find a State of Flow
Unnecessary Roughness

Ride your bike through the winter with these dressing tips

Someone was asking me the other day when I would stop riding for the winter because of the weather. While I am not so hardcore that I ride on the road when it is minus two degrees and snowing. I am usually able to hit the trails on most weekends. It all really comes down to dressing correctly for the weather. In this article I will try to provide some guidelines and tips to keep you warm and dry without overheating.

• Dress in layers: I am sure you have heard this one because it is sage advice. This is the most important part of being to regulate your temperature heat gets trapped in the layers and moisture is wicked away from you skin. If you start to overheat you can always peel off an insulating layer

Layer Basics


• Base layer: This is the layer that you put next to your skin. It should be light, tight, and wicking to move moisture away and keep you warm.
  Under Armour and Hind are excellent choices
  I usually wear a cycling jersey over my base layer. This provides me with pockets if I need them and a layer that zips if I start to get warm but not so much that I want to drop a layer.


• Insulating Layer: This layer is the one that has the most variation. For a forty degree day another base layer may suffice. Below forty to thirty a smart wool long sleeve jersey is a good choice. Below thirty and I usually wear my Fox Insulated Jersey which is warm and wicking. Pearl Izumi also has some good choices.


• Shell: The shell is the your top layer and is responsible for keeping out the elements while allowing moisture and some heat to escape. Shells are the most technical garment you will probably own. Some shells have a linings that provides additional warmth and zip out. Sleeves that zip off and Zippers for venting. All this in a package that folds up to fit in your jersey or camelback.
  Hind and Pearl Izumi, and Gore-Tex make good choices


• Use your Head: Due to the number of blood vessels and lack of fat on your head you can loose up to ten percent more heat through you head than other parts of your body. Make sure you keep your head covered. There a varying head covers. I have three, all of which are made by Nike. One is a full head and face cover which is great for colder days. The other two are beanie type head covers. All three are made of synthetic stretchy material.


• Down to your toes: I use Lake Cycling Boots and Pearl Izumi or smart wool winter socks. I find the Lake boots to be toasty down to temps of 15 degrees or so. Pedaling hard—and wearing good lofty socks—most riders will be fine even in temperatures approaching zero degrees. But I also have Neoprene shoe covers for the coldest of days.


• Don't forget your hands: Cold hands will ruin a otherwise good ride. If you can not hold the bars you can not ride. I have tried a variety of winter cycling gloves but my hands get cold easily, so now I use ski gloves which keep my hands warm and after riding with them a few times they have become worked in enough to not feel bulky anymore.
• Last but not least keep your legs warm: This is one of the easier parts of your body to keep warm since your legs are performing most of the work. Tights will usually suffice. On days that fall below thirty degrees you may want a tight with some additional insulation. Pearl Izumi makes some tights with a fleece lining that will do the trick. When out on the road something with a windstop on the front is a good idea.
  Dress for the coldest part of the day: Make sure you have clothes to keep you warm for the coldest part of the day you can always peel of a layer, but if you are not warm enough you only have what you brought with you.
• Ride a later in the day: By riding in the late morning or early afternoon you will be taking advantage of the warmest part of the day. The difference can be a substantial ten to twenty degrees.

Connect with that special someone In a new way

Today I did some basic maintenance on my Road bike nothing elaborate just a cleaning, chain replacement, and new front tire. There is something about working on your bike that creates a connection between you and your bike, a connection that is quite different than that which is created by the miles and hours spent riding. I have taken my bikes to shops many times to be worked on and there are certain repairs that I do not feel qualified to make but when I do perform the maintenance myself I feel like I am doing the best job, spending the time and attention to detail that a shop would not. Details like cleaning some road grit from the derailleur pulley with a q-tip or talcing my tubes. After I was done getting everything back together I lubed the chain and cables and took my bike for a short ride around the block I couldn't help but smile as my bike shifted smoothly, rode quiet, and the frame felt smooth (not sticky with Gatorade) as my leg brushed the top tube. Having completed a job worth doing and done well It is time for a Margarita.

If you have some maintenance tips or stories about jobs you have tackled tell us about it.

A good place to start for some tips is Lennard Zinn's Books, Performance Bike has some how-to guides, and Fox online Service Videos.

Practicing your bike handling skills

Curb your Enthusiasm

Practicing bike handling skills can be done any time just outside your door.

Skills you can practice in an urban setting translate well to the trail some things to try are Wheelies, Manuals (Wheelie without pedaling) ,Bunny Hop, Weight Shifts, Riding Skinnies, Slow Speed turns.

For wheelies I would suggest not being clipped in (if you ride clipless Pedals) and riding on a flat ground or slight Incline (If you are really worried about falling backward try a grassy Soccer Field). You are trying to find your balance point.
Start by Lifting the front wheel. Pull up on the bars and Lean Back. Slightly feather the rear brake to prevent yourself from going over backwards pedal and lean back to keep the front wheel from coming down.

The reasons for wanting to be able to wheelie are numerous: jagged rocks deflect your wheel, bumps slow you down, and curbs can cause you to enddo. When you can lift your front wheel over obstacles, you retain speed and control in all sorts of situations.
1. Sitting and Pedaling Wheelie You’re climbing a nice singletrack with excellent traction. A three-inch root crosses the trail. Bashing into it will slow you down or knock you off line. If you can get your front wheel over it and keep pedaling, your rear tire will crawl right over it.
Start in a neutral position.
Crouch down and forward, with your bum on the saddle. Your power pedal should be at around 2 o’clock.
Explosively push your torso upward and backward with your arms. At the same time, uncork a powerful pedal stroke. If you get it right, your front wheel will pop up.
Keep your arms straight and your weight back. Keep pedaling. KEEP IT THERE Pedaling around with your wheel in the air isn’t very useful on the trail, but it looks cool. Learn to balance sitting wheelies before you move up to coaster wheelies.Keep lifting your front wheel until you find the balancing point. The magic spot will feel weightless, like you are neither working to keep the wheel up nor falling on your bum. It’s all about getting comfortable with the balance. Here are some tricks to help you stay on top:Find the balance. Once you get to the magic spot, keep pedaling nice and easy. If you feel yourself falling forward, pedal harder. If you feel yourself falling backward, brake a little. If you start falling to one side, lean to the other side.Choose the right gear. A really low gear gives you a fast pop but short loft time. A higher gear gives you less pop but longer loft. Find your happy medium. When your kung fu is good, you’ll use your normal, low climbing gear. You can get it spinning very easily, for great explosion, and you keep it spinning to maintain lift. Pedal all the way up to it. It’s easiest to approach your wheelie point already pedaling and then give it some extra juice when the time is right. After you get the hang of this, you can try jabbing the pedals from a coast.
Never stop pedaling. Keep turning the pedals after you pop your wheel up. It’s easier to give a little more or less gas if your foot’s already on the pedal.Light brakes. If you jab your rear brake, your front wheel will slam to the ground so fast you won’t be able to stop it. All you need is a tiny bit of lever pressure. If you find you keep giving it too much brake at once, try lightly dragging the brake as you ride. This is like your constant pedaling: It’s easier to give a bit more or less when you’re already giving some.Stay loose. We can’t say this enough. Sit lightly on the saddle so you can slide forward or back, right or left. Feel free to sway your knees in and out. If you’re using flat pedals, you can tilt your foot to the side or even hang it out like an outrigger.

Coasting Wheelie, aka “Manual” When you’re coasting downhill or on flat ground, this is the best way to get your front wheel over trouble. You’d be amazed at what your rear wheel can roll over after your front is already clear, especially with suspension. Remember to stay loose and keep your speed reasonable.
Start in a neutral position, arms and legs slightly bent, weight centered.
Crouch down and forward. Bring your chest close to your handlebars.
All of a sudden, with great vigor, push your torso upward and backward. Straighten your arms all the way. Straighten your legs a bit and push your hips backward and your pedals forward. Imagine your body rotating back over the contact patch of your rear tire.
Let your body continue to rotate up and back. When your arms straighten, your body’s momentum will pull the front end up. (This way, you lift the bike with the mass of your body rather than your arms.) The farther back you go, the closer your center of gravity gets to your rear tire’s contact patch, and the longer you can keep your wheel up. Don’t go too far, though, or you’ll “loop out,” which means “fall on your bum.”If you can get your front wheel onto a sidewalk, you can let your rear wheel bash right over the curb. Go slow and stay loose, and soon you’ll experience real freedom.KEEP IT THERE Because you can’t use your pedals to cheat your front end upward, you have to maintain balance with perfect body position and sharp reflexes. Expert -manualers can balance forever over all sorts of terrain, from rocks to bumps to stream crossings.Here are some tips to help you find some balance in your life:
Straighten your arms and lean all the way back to the balance point.
If you need to raise your front wheel, push your hips backward or pedals forward.
If you need to lower your front wheel, pull yourself forward.
It’s all in the hips. Leave your arms pretty much straight.MANUAL TIPS Preload. When you go from your neutral position to your crouch, drop your weight quickly and then immediately push back upward. The rebound of your bike’s tires, frame, and suspension will add to your explosion.Timing. You want your wheel to be highest when it reaches the obstacle. Lift too soon and you hit on the upswing. Too late and you hit on the downfall. Perfect timing depends on your speed, the height of the obstacle, and how fast you lift your wheel. Pop lots of wheelies, and perfect timing will come.Learn on a hardtail. On a full-suspension bike, you not only have to maintain your balance over the rear wheel, you also have to compensate for the moving suspension.Manual a Double It’s easier to manual across a pair of humps than to manual on flat ground. The first hump helps lift your front wheel, and the second hump gives you a target to aim for. This little trick gives you a feel for manual balance, plus it’s a fast way to get over the humps.
Let the first hump lift your front wheel. Shift your weight backward to keep the front end up.
Bend your legs as your wheel rolls up the hump.
Push your rear wheel down the backside. This gives you some free speed and helps hold the front end up.
Set the front tire onto the backside of the second hump.
Absorb the hump with your legs.
Straighten your legs and pump down the backside.As your skills improve, manual all the way over the second hump. This will give you a better pump and elevate you one step closer to manualing greatness. The front side of a tabletop makes a nice manualing aid, as well.Wheelie Sideways An hour into your singletrack climb, you enter a super-tight switchback. You know your bike won’t track through the deep rut carving through the apex, so you ride past it, pick your wheel up, swing your bike around, and set your wheel down at the top of the turn.
Look and lean into the turn like normal.
Explode with power and pick up the front end. Burst forward out of your saddle. Push with your legs and pull with your arms. Keep leaning into the turn!
Set it back down and enjoy the rest of your ride.

Bunny Hop - While Coasting Load your suspension or tires for a hardtail or ridid bike by dropping you weight downward then unweight the bike by springing upward the bike should follow (If you are clipped in this is easy and you can lift the bike higher by pulling the bike up and into you) If you are not clipped in you will need to roll the bars forward and push your weight a bit forward to bring the rear wheel off the ground. Bunny hops are useful for clearing obstacles without losing any momentum such as logs, rock gardens, and lesser mountain bikers who have fallen and can't get up.

Weight Shifts - This employs skills used in wheelies and the bunny hop where you lift the front wheel up and place it on top of an object above the rear wheel you then unweight the rear wheel to bring it up to where the front wheel was. This can be used get up and over larger obstacles such as big logs, rock ledges, picnic tables etc..

Skinnies - This is what it sounds like you are practicing balancing on a skinny riding surface like a curb or wall.

Slow Speed Turns - Try moving as slow as you can while not needing to Dab a foot and riding figure eights or placing some rocks down and riding around them.

Most important is have fun with the process of improving your riding skills. Pick something to work on and do it for 10 minutes a few times a week you will soon see these skills translate to the trail.

Getting Ready for Winter Riding....The Ride Inside Part II

Getting Ready for Winter Riding....The Ride Inside Part II

Let's face it if you live in the Northeast you have few riding options either endure some nasty weather(Snow, Wind, Sleet, Cold Rain) or ride inside.
Sure every once in a while the cycling gods smile upon us giving is a sunny, calm day above 40 degress, but a regular ride schedule cannot be planned based on this and fitness will suffer.
Even if you are hearty enough to brave the elements on most days there are going to be times that you may not be able to get out for a ride especially because the days are shorter.
I personally do not mind spinning inside (or as it tends to be for me active movie watching) I have done 4 hour sessions watching some epic movies, series, or Other Movies plus their sequals. Sometimes I will watch a movie and then do a CTS training video. I also find that doing a structured workout makes the time go faster. This is also a great time to work on pedaling efficiency and mechanics

Having a good space to ride is helpful as well. Although my space is not great it serves it's purpose and takes up only about 12 Square feet.

I try to have everything right where I need it I am a horrible Procrastinator and don't need any reason to put off getting on the bike. I also keep a list of Heart Rate ranges handy.

My Television is small it only has a 12" screen but It's bigger than the screen on my ipod
I have a small fan right in front of the bike to help keep me cool.

I also have a picture of Lance on my wall riding in the tour during some very nasty weather to remind me that I should get outside a little more often, lest my bike handling skills will go to pot but that is another article.

Short List of Movies
PlushII
Iron Will
Breaking Away
Most Tour Videos - Any climbing stage will Do
Band of Brothers
Sopranos
Start Wars (All of them)
Die Hard

Find your Flow on the Trail

Find a State of Flow*
From Mastering Mountain Bike Skills by Brian Lopes, Lee McCormack


Mountain biking satisfies so many desires. It transforms a gunnysack full of kittens into a ripped, hard body. It carries you through stunning places with exceptional people. Its sites, sounds, smells, and sensations block out all your inner demons. And, of course, the speed and magnitude of it all excite you like nothing else.

You can go for half a dozen rides and enjoy them for half a dozen reasons. Your lunchtime loop keeps you fit, Moab’s Porcupine Rim Trail enthralls you, a twisty singletrack whips you like a roller coaster, a huge jump scares the heck out of you.

These are all fantastic ways to enjoy our fine sport, but the ultimate experience happens when your thoughts crawl into your CamelBak and your body flows along the trail without effort or voice. Time changes. Tension disappears. You’re focused but not forced. Controlling your bike becomes effortless. You’ve entered the magical state of “flow.”

Dr. Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi describes the feeling of flow in his groundbreaking book, Flow: The Psychology of Optimal Experience:“. . . Concentration is so intense that there is no attention left over to think about anything irrelevant, or to worry about problems. Self-consciousness disappears, and the sense of time becomes distorted. An activity that produces such experiences is so gratifying that people are willing to do it for its own sake, with little concern for what they will get out of it, even when it is difficult, or dangerous.”

Does that sound familiar?

Flow only happens when the demands of the situation intersect with your abilities. The trail isn’t so hard it scares you, nor is it so easy it bores you. The further the demands lay above your perceived abilities, the bigger the rush. Savor a peaceful cruise down a local trail, enjoy a thrill behind a faster rider down a new path, or transcend all you thought possible by pinning it for an entire cross-country race. You might vomit at the end, but it feels so good, doesn’t it?

We say “perceived” abilities because that’s what counts. Most of us can climb harder, corner faster, and fly farther than we usually do. When you can let go of your inner mother and flow along in this zone, you’ll have max fun and improve your riding.

Unfortunately, we can’t just put on a Flow-Tron 2000 helmet and instantly feel that ecstasy. (If we could, we’d never do anything else.) According to the book Good Stress, Bad Stress by Barry Lenson, flow is a precise psychological state that requires these elements:

Adequate skills. You don’t learn to flow. You learn to ride your bike. When you can corner, hop, and jump without thinking, then you can flow. You might achieve ecstasy in the soft Santa Cruz woods but flounder amid the raspy Phoenix boulders. When you worry about surviving the ride, you do not flow.

Goals. If you ride around--la la la--with no mission, you miss the rewards of accomplishing your goals. Set a goal. Spin smoothly, rail corners, stay on your buddy’s wheel, or just stay on your bike for a change. If you need a ready-made structure, compete in a race. You have to know you’re doing a good job.

Excitement. Too little stress and your mind wanders. Too much stress and you freak out. Go ahead and let some butterflies flutter in your tummy. They tell you you’re being pushed, and that a huge stoke awaits.

The good news is, achieving flow is neither random nor extremely difficult. Here are some tips to help you achieve flow more consistently and in crazier situations.

Break ’em down. Break big tasks into small components. If you’re an intermediate jumper and you try to nail a technical 10-pack all at once, you’ll end up more broken than satisfied. Instead, try to get a perfect takeoff on the first double, then master the landing. When you get that down, add jumps number two, number three, and so on.

Practice. Don’t just go out and ride, either. Pay close attention to what you’re doing. Systematically build the skills you need to rip. Focus your mind on pedaling perfect circles. Then do a million of them.

Hang with the right crowd. Ride with people at or above your skill level. You will rise or fall to the level of your peers. Beware: If you feel inadequate around superior riders, or if they take you places you aren’t ready for, you’ll find it difficult to have a good time.

Pick the right tool for the job. You should not be worrying about your bike tracking correctly or holding together. You heard it here first: Go forth and buy!

Conquer your obstacles. Pay attention to the things that prevent or interrupt your flow. Maybe you tense up every time you encounter baby head rocks. Either stay away from them or learn to ride them.

Don’t pay attention to yourself. As soon as you realize you’re ripping, the ripping pretty much stops. Remember that scene in Empire Strikes Back when Luke stood on one hand with his eyes closed, with Yoda and a bunch of stuff balanced on his feet, and he started to levitate his X-wing fighter? He was definitely ripping. As soon as he opened his eyes and thought, “Yes! I’m a Jedi Master!” it all came crashing down. Don’t be self-conscious like Luke. Be confident like Han.



To get this Book goto: https://www.humankinetics.com/products/showproduct.cfm?isbn=9780736056243